by James Gogarty
interpreter: Martina Olbertová

Prague seduced me a few years back. Not only because of it's human scale architecture, or its egalitarian lifestyle but because of the fruit it bears so well, beer. Without a doubt some the finest beer in the world is produced in The Czech Republic. So why with a rich history of brewing and over 90 breweries in a country of only 10 million are only a few beers on hand at any given pub in Prague? Yes, Pilsner, Gambrinus, Staropramen, Budvar and Velke Popovice can be found in great quantity but what about all the lovely microbrews I have come across while traveling the country? To answer these questions, my interpreter, my liver and I set out to visit Galerie Piva in Mala Strana.

Prague natives, Jan Vrabec and Tómáš Váura, opened Galerie Piva 2 years ago. Jan, who has fond memories of his grandmother working in a pub, was impressed with the many beer shops in England and Ireland and decided to open his own. The partners saw a niche for Czech beer other than the "Big Five" and now offer over 100 different microbrews from around the country in a slightly crowded shop.

Over a glass of Plantan Schwarzenbergské we discuss the recent history of Czech breweries. Jan, who loves to talk, hardly giving my interpreter time to catch up, explains that the beer was of a poor and inconsistent quality during communism due to lack of competition and an abused environment. Because the beer was unpasteurized, with low quality ingredients, the shelf life was short, making extended travel impossible. One would often hold the bottle up to the light inside the local shop to check for over-sedimentation. Yet the Bolsheviks kept the beer cheap to appease the masses and consumption never faltered. Probably, Jan laughs, it was one of the few pleasures during that era. The regional policies during this time meant that every region had its own brewery, around 200, but not unlike now you could only sample these special brews if you traveled to those particular areas.

The political revolution of '89 also meant a revolution for the breweries, Jan barrels ahead, with the open competition it was survival of the fittest. All but one of the "Big Five" were privatized while Budvar remains state owned to this day. Prazdroj and Gambrinus were bought out by the global conglomerate, SABMiller. Many of the smaller town breweries have closed or have been bought by the "Big Five". Bernard remains one of the only family run breweries in the country. The slow but consistent reclamation of the environment meant better hops and barley, simply put, better beer. Opening a second bottle, Klášter, Jan holds it up to the light too and notes that bottle design has undeniably improved tenfold. Creative marketing wasn't one of the communist's strong suits.

Jan opens a bottle of Baron Trenck and swiftly changes the subject. This 14 degree beer has my translator feeling a bit tipsy as she loudly translates one story of the baron: Trenck was a gambler, and a successful one at that, enabling him to rub shoulders with aristocrats and even royalty. Catching the eye of Marie Teresa, wife of the Holy Roman Emperor, the two were soon involved in a passionate affair. She honored him by making him a baron and protector of the border regions. After gambling with Marie's heart he soon ended the relationship. In a spirited rage she had him thrown in Brno's Špilberk, one of the worst prisons in the Empire. Before he died alone in his cell he left all of his money to a local monastery. Or at least we think that's what the story was.

Great, a baron dies for his philandering ways but why can't I get this beer at most pubs in Prague? The answer, Jan finally contends, is the rapid pace of capitalism that has seen to it that only the "Big-Five" rule the roost and supply pubs and restaurants with all the equipment. In return the pub signs a contract to solely distribute that brewer's beer. He doesn't see this changing any time soon. Czechs might hold the consumption record, Jan laments, but 'pub culture' dominates 'beer culture'. Most Czech drinkers are conservative and happy to drink their favorite brew, day in and day out. Although the number of beer enthusiasts is growing, tourists and expats make up the majority of Galeria Piva's customers.

Sad in the fact that Prague pubs won't change any time soon but happy in the knowledge that I can find all of these microbrews in one location, we clumsily step from the shop's malty heat out into the dreary Prague day.

Galerie Piva (Beer Shop)
Lázeňská 15,
Prague, Czech Republic
257 532 687
www.czechbeershop.cz

Jan's Top 5 BEERS from Galerie Piva
as sampled by James

Lobkowicz - Démon 13 degrees: This little monster is dry and (un)surprisingly a bit smokey in taste and light in texture. Malt dominates the aroma with bready and molasses tones making the flavour lighter than expected. Malty and slightly nutty through the middle with a light sour aftertaste. Very smooth.

Pivovar Ferdinand - Sedm Kulí 13 degrees: (Provokator's favorite) named after the seven bullets that killed Franz Ferdinand, this brew is a wonderful balance of dark and light with coffee overtones and hints of sweet butterscotch malts. These gentle bullets would be a great way to nurse a deadly hangover!

Platan - Práchenská Perla 14 degrees: somewhere between Démon and Sedm Kulí yet missing something from each end but overall pours a smooth crisp glass with a tinge of bitter-sweet hoppiness.

Černá Hora - Kvasar 14 degrees: Kvasar means fermentation and uses honey to acheive this higher degree of alcohol which is instantly recognizable on your tongue but grows more subtle after a several tastes. Sweet malts and dry hops make a shy appearance.

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