by Serena Joequin

“I’m Švejk” was the bright-eyed response that greeted me from the man standing by the door. I was mildly taken aback and instantly relaxed after the stress of trying to locate the restaurant (I’m always lost), and I was trying to avoid the usual embarrassment of fumbling my way through the two and a half words that I know in Czech.

“Umm ... U Švejků?”(meaning at Švejk’s) I asked, hoping for the best and perhaps a light of recognition. The warm smile and gentle nudge towards the inside of the restaurant started my evening at the place named after the lovable Czech anti-hero. What transpired is clearly a testament to the popularity of U Švejků and, one would assume, Czech cuisine. I had a reservation, but, after I waded through tables of diners from the front of the restaurant to the back, it was clear that, if I wanted to experience the place, I had to wait at least twenty minutes.

The “every man” idea is captured by the wooden benches that bring patrons close to each other (I was, in fact, sitting back-to-back with another diner). There is no pretense, pomp or pageantry, really no need to strain your back trying to sit up straight.

Czech culture, like all cultures, places a lot of emphasis on food, food preparation and the times that all gather around to part take in the meal. The novel The Good Soldier Švejk had numerous episodes of soldiers clamoring for their taste of home and even more of Baloun, the almost lovable giant, wolfing down other people's food. U Švejků is that good place to gather with friends, have a beer and eat with your elbows on the table.

Pivnice 'U Švejků'
Újezd 22,   Praha 1
tel: +420 257 313 244
fax: +420 257 320 419
www.usvejku.cz/

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