A guy runs out of fingers and toes counting how often people tell him it’s impossible to be vegan here. Few naysayers have, however, tried, though some ate vegan “for six months back home,” until they “got sick” or “missed cheese too much” or “just needed protein.” It’s likely they haven’t sought options and can’t see beyond the mushy tofu in brown gravy offered by several Chinese-style joints or the crumbling cabbage-topped falafel that’s often the only late-night option for those who don’t have it in them to nibble Hermelín or deep throat klobasa. No, Prague’s not a grand place to be vegan, but it is possible. 

Country Life / Photo: Jan Prerovsky

The Seventh-day Adventists’ anti-alcohol and caffeine deal makes some nervous, but none can complain that the sect puts surprises on the plate. At this cafeteria-type joint off Wenceslas Square, the Adventists serve several types of slop—carrots ’n’ such, tofu ’n’ such, and potatoes ’n’ such among them—a three-scoop sampling of which came to about 60 Kc (by weight), plus 30 Kc for  desserts that beckon eyes more than please palates. Fast, frugal, and filling. (Melantrichova 15, Praha 1)

Radost / Photo: Jan Prerovsky

The place is a bit obnoxious, generally because of the folks a table over who partied their asses off last night and want everybody to know. Service is sweller than one might expect in a joint that comes off a bit, um, hipper than one prefers for the day’s first meal, though food can easily take an hour. The scrambled-tofu huevos rancheros, fried potatoes, and refilled filter coffee—all so hard to find in Prague—are the perfect comfort cures for partying one’s ass off the night before, total about 190 Kc. (Belehradská 120, Praha 2)

Albio / Photo: Jan Prerovsky

Firsts for a nine-year vegan and lifelong vegetarian: paella and dessert crepe, which were grand and exquisite, and everything else people say when describing stuff they really, really like; 600-plus Kc bill—holy motherfuck. The price came after two and a half hours of two people luxuriating over the tofu paella, a bowl of tofu chili, the dessert (so rich, yet sooo good), and four glasses of organic merlot. It’s extravagant, but totally worth it.
(Truhláská 20, P raha 1)

previously printed in Provokator Print Magazine 

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