As Masopusts Do: Carnival, Czech style

on 07-02-2007 03:37

Published in : , Prague

by James Gogarty

Roztoky Masopust in castle 2006

The cock, although obviously spirited by a slew of spirits, strutted around the crowd, as cocks do. It was partly to patrol the undulating borders and fully to lure all eyes to his magnificent cardinal comb, as cocks do. The magpie, loud in her delivery, explained the processions of the past to a hardly listening goat and a drum banging bear. She cawed at their indifference and fled to join the merriment of the cock who preferred a solo act, but being caught up in the festivities didn't mind a dance partner. Together they shimmied up the street avoiding 10 foot high maidens with 5 o' clock shadows while a score of raggedy soldiers and graceful hobos trumpeted, drummed and what-have-you into the bitter February air. As the music grew louder and louder, the cock and the magpie were joined by a pair of pigs and a rather hopped-up horse. Linking arms they spun their circle ever faster and faster. The world was a blur of beaks, paws, horns, brass, and skulls. More punch-drunk than drunk on punch, they collapsed en masse. Sprawled out on the floor laughing maniacally the magpie bellowed, "The world has turned up side down! as Masopusts do.

Roztoky Masopust 2006 - roztoc.cz

"The world turned upside down" has always been the theme of Masopust. Masopust, literally meaning "good-bye to meat", is the Czech Republic's equivalent to Carnival or Mardi Gras although having obvious connections to much older pagan celebrations involving the coming of spring and fertility rights. The basics are similar enough; masks, dance and procession. Assuming many of us are not prepared to give up meat for a torturous 40 days and 40 nights, it is the pagan-like mania that will lure most.

Traditionally the Masopust begins on Sunday with a heavy dinner followed by dancing and entertainment. Having very little sleep, masqueraders and musicians would meet in the village square Monday at dawn and parade around the village, stopping at homes and pubs to recieve donuts, eggs, bacon, etc. in exchange for a short skit. The evening, as you guessed, involved more feasting and dancing as well a strange little jig involving the farmer's daughters jumping as high they can to predict how tall said farmer's crops would grow the coming spring. On Fat Tuesday, masopustní úterý, the parade rounds the village and centers on the local pub for the most fervent of dances, with the women guarding a large pastry wreath and the men attempting to steal it. A plump pig is usually slaughtered on this day and served up in full to the ravenous crowd. In some regions Bacchus , a god known for his lushful ways , may show up on this night only to be buried alive in snow and later recovered on Ash Wednesday. One buried Bacchus in the 19th Century died of exposure leading authorities to ban the tradition. While there are various other rituals, these were core to village carnival.

Zizkov Masopust 2007

Due to today's busy working life the modern Masopust doesn't always follow this hectic schedule. The Karlín district actually had their Masopust early, February 3, so we can strike that off the calendar. One not to miss is Prague's largest celebration, found in �i�kov from [February] Friday the 16th through Tuesday the 20th. This is �i�kov's 14th year, and the usual carnival atmosphere will be present, with a tamed down pig slaughter and live music in the streets, as well as more music, theatre and poster exhibits in Palác Akropolis and Kino Aero. The parade occurs on Tuesday starting at náměstí Jiřiho z Poděbrad at 5pm. The comedy duo Suchánek and Genzer will lead the masses through the streets ending with a bang and a beat, as fireworks and Radio Beat entertain into the night. Organizers are asking partakers to channel the criminal underground and come dressed as gangsters, thieves, highwaymen or anything else a bit naughty as this year's theme celebrates �i�kov's dark past.

Roztoky Masopust traditional bear wrestle -roztoc.cz

If your week is as busy as mine, then carnivalling and carnivoring must wait for the weekend. Probably the closest thing the Prague area has to a traditional village Masopust, albeit condensed, is in Roztoky u Prahy . Roztoky is a forested town just 6km north of the city. The celebration will begin February 10th in the castle at 1pm with performances, King -ordaining and plenty of food and and barrels of roaming grog. The crowd will then parade with a brass band and chaotic ensemble of actors, jugglers, and fire performers through the town and across the valley to convene with another parade, only to follow their new friends to Unětický Kravín Concert Hall for the traditional pig roast or Zabíjačka. A great evening of music will ensue, including Rudovous , which has been likened to a rock & shammel- shrapnel-chanson band with influences from traditional Prague songs, TV bedtime stories, 70s punk and Tom Waits. Masopust veteren, Sketa Fotr , will headline the night with their country-ska sound twanging off a steel guitar that can make the prudist among you dance. The music, the feasting and the dancing will continue into the wee hours of the morning, as Masopusts do.

�i�kov schedule: www.praha3.cz

Roztoky schedule: www.roztoc.cz/kalendar.php (Provokator highly recommends)

Getting to Roztoky:
by bus: Vitězné nam. (Dejvická)- buses 340, 350
by train: Masarykovo nád. - train towards Kralupy n.Vlt.
Get off at Roztoky nád. and look for sign to the Zámek (Castle) it is 100 meters away.

previously published in Provokator February 2007 print magazine