Masopust! A World Turned Upside Down (in Roztoky!)

on 22-02-2006 04:58

Published in : , Prague

by James Gogarty

The cock, although obviously spirited by a slew of spirits, strutted around the crowd, as cocks do. It was partly to patrol the undulating borders and fully to lure all eyes to his magnificent cardinal comb, as cocks do. The crow, loud in her delivery, explained the processions of the past to a hardly listening goat and a drum banging bear. She cawed at their indifference and fled to join the merriment of the cock who preferred a solo act, but being caught up in the festivities didn't mind a dance partner. Together they shimmied up the street avoiding 10 foot high maidens with 5 o' clock shadows while a score of raggedy soldiers and graceful hobos trumpeted, bassooned, drummed and what-have-you into the bitter February air. As the music grew louder and louder the cock and the crow were joined by a pair of pigs and a rather hopped-up horse. Linking arms they spun their circle ever faster and faster. The world was a blur of beaks, paws, horns, spots, stripes, whiskers, pointy ears, saggy ears, snouts, brass, and skulls. More punch-drunk than drunk on punch they collapsed en masse. Sprawled out on the floor laughing maniacally the crow bellowed, "the world has turned up side down!", as Masopusts do.

'The world turned upside down' has always been the theme of Masopust. Masopust, literally meaning "good-bye to meat", is the Czech Republic's equivalent to Carnival or Mardi Gras although having obvious connections to much older pagan celebrations involving the coming of spring and fertility rights. The basics are similar enough; masks, dance and procession. Assuming many of us are not prepared to give up meat for 40 days and 40 nights, it is the pagan-like mania that will lure most.

Traditionally the masopust begins on Sunday with a heavy dinner followed by dancing and entertainment. Having very little sleep masqueraders and musicians would meet in the village square Monday at dawn and parade around the village stopping at homes and pubs and receiving donuts, eggs, bacon, etc. in exchange for a short skit. The evening, as you guessed, involves more feasting and dancing as well a strange little jig involving the farmer's daughters jumping as high they can to predict how tall said farmer's crops will grow.

On Fat Tuesday, masopustni utery, the parade rounds the village and centers on the local pub for the most fervent of dances with the women guarding a large pastry wreath and the men attempting to steal it. A plump pig is usually slaughtered on this day and served up in full to the ravenous crowd. In some regions Bacchus, a god known for his lushful ways , may show up on this night (This year Big Brother's muscle-bound doofus, Shrek, will play the part in Zizkov) only to be buried alive in snow or a pond (?) on Ash Wednesday. One buried Bacchus in the 19th Century died of exposure leading to authorities to ban the tradition. While there are various other rituals these were core to village carnival.

right Due to today's busy working life the modern Masopust doesn't always follow this hectic schedule. The Mala strana district actually had their Masopust last weekend (18-19.2) while �i�kov's is from Friday the 24th through Wednesday the 28th. This is �i�kov's 13th year and the usual carnival atmosphere will be present with a tamed down pig slaughter and live music in the streets as well as in Palac Akropolis. Don't forget Shrek from Big Brother will don grapes and a toga on Friday. The largest parade occurs on Ash Wednesday starting at náměstí Jiřiho z Poděbrad at 5pm.

If your week is as busy as mine then carnivalling and carnivoring must wait for the weekend. Probably the closest thing the Prague area has to a traditional Masopust, albeit condensed, is in Roztoky u Prahy. Roztoky is a forested town just 6km north of the city. The celebration will begin at the castle at 1pm with performances, ordaining of the King of Masopust and plenty of food and and plenty of roaming slivovice. The crowd will then parade through the town and across the valley to convene with another parade only to end up in another small town at the Unětický Kravín Concert Hall for the traditional pig roast "Zabijačka". A great venue of music will ensue including Prague's very own Flaming Cocks. Their music has been likened to an amalgamation of a punkish rebellion against a commie upbringing and the gay denim turbo rock 'n' roll pelvic thrust coming from the north or more simply put, you will be able to pogo your little legs off. They will be followed by avant-garde rockers Sketa Fotr. The music, the feasting and the dancing will continue into the wee hours of the morning, as Masopusts do.

Getting there:
by bus: Vitězné nam. (Dejvicka)- buses 340, 350
by train: Masarykovo nad. - train to Kralupy n.Vlt.
Get off at Roztoky Nád and look for sign to the Zamek (Castle) it is 100 meters away.

Masopust in Roztoky u Prahy Program:

Roztoky Castle
13:00 - 14:30 Meeting of the masquerade, juggling performance, the town Mayor will ordane the King of Masopust, small kiosks will offer traditional food and drink: donuts, cakes, pies, sausages, slivovice, etc.

Carnival Parade
14:30 - 16:30 The parade will travel through and beyond Roztoky to convene with another parade in the town of Unětice. Together the two parades will continue to the pub and concert hall, Unětický Kravín (Cow Barn). At 17:00 the parade will end.

Unětice: Unětický Kravín Concert Hall
14:00 - 18:00 Traditional Pig Roast "Zabijačka"